Alpinkletterführer Berchtesgaden Ost

Scope and structure

This is a focused alpine climbing guide to the eastern Berchtesgaden massif, built around three pillars: Untersberg, Hoher Göll, and Hohes Brett. The book opens with clear how-to sections on using the guide, protection and equipment, grading, area context, and conservation. Seven regional chapters (A–G) then break the rock into logical sectors, each introduced by overview maps, annotated wall photos, and precise approach/descent notes. Route descriptions combine succinct pitches with gear hints, abseil options, and objective-hazard warnings—usefully frank for the alpine setting.

Coverage and destinations

Expect a satisfying spread from classic history lines to modern, bolt-protected multi-pitches (roughly UIAA 3 to 11-). Key areas include:

• Untersberg: Berchtesgadener Hochthron (SW, S, E faces), Gurrwand, Gamsalmkopf/Rauheck, Gelbe Mauer.
• Salzburger Hochthron side: Mittagscharte, Kleine Südwand, Blausandpfeiler, Rosittenwand, Dopplerwand.
• Hoher Göll: the famed Westwand and adjacent NW/SW walls.
• Hohes Brett: Westside/Jenner and the sunny Southside, notably Mitterkaser, the SW Plattenfluchten, Jagerkreuz, Brettriedel.
• Pflugtal/Alpeltal and the Bluntautal satellites.

Classics and standouts—old and new—are foregrounded: Hinterstoißer–Kurz (6+), Schertlepfeiler (9), Happy Days (8/8+), Child of Sun (9), Sonnenkönig (10), and numerous well-bolted Brett slabs for “Genusskletterer.”

On-the-wall usability

For climbing, the topos are the star: clean line drawings and photo-topos with bolt counts, belays, and rappel lines marked; BEV/Bavarian basemaps aid micro‑navigation. Aspect, sun/shade and rock-steepness are conveyed visually; gear notes appear where needed (e.g., specific cam sizes on crack lines). The book is candid about serious elements—long descents, rockfall exposure, and the tricky Mittagsloch passage—plus gives public-transport options and hut logistics (Stöhrhaus, Carl-von‑Stahl‑Haus, Schneibsteinhaus). The conservation guidance and the “naturverträglich klettern” seal underline good local stewardship in this National Park setting.

Authorship and voice

Written by local alpinists and prolific first ascensionists Richard Koller and Georg Sojer, the guide blends deep area knowledge with practical route vetting; that insider perspective shows in the accurate approach times, sensible grading, and honest protection commentary.

Verdict

A well-structured, field-ready guide that balances heritage lines and modern plaisir routes across a compact but varied limestone massif. If you’re planning multipitch days from moderate to hard—with a tilt toward sunny, well-bolted slabs on Hohes Brett and big-wall ambition on the Göll—this belongs in your pack. Strongly recommended for first-time visitors and returning locals alike.

Details

Weight

550g

Pages

360

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag