Best of Dolomiten

Scope and structure

A curated, multi-pitch climbing guide to the Dolomites, this second edition assembles about 200 routes (29 newly added) chosen by Val Gardena guide and first ascensionist Ivo Rabanser. The emphasis is on time‑tested classics that have emerged as the benchmark tours of the range, spanning the Puster Valley to the Pala and from the Karerpass to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Difficulty is balanced mainly across UIAA IV–VII, with a handful of III and VIII.

The book opens with clear sections on how to use the guide, grading, safety, route planning, and a concise introduction to the UNESCO Dolomites. Each regional chapter begins with an overview and logistics, then subareas and individual routes.

Coverage and route selection

Geographic spread is excellent for a “best of” volume:

• Rosengarten
• Marmolada–Vallaccia
• Langkofel–Sella (including Piz Ciavazes and the Sellatürme)
• Geisler–Pùez
• Fanes–Tofana
• Ampezzaner Dolomiten (incl. Drei Zinnen)
• Pala
• Civetta–Moiazza–Bosconero
• Brenta

Selections blend long, historic lines (e.g., Großer Zinne, Tofana di Ròzes, Sass Maor) with more modern classics (e.g., Don Quixote on Marmolada, routes on Cason del Formin). Shorter, sunny walls near passes serve as plan‑B objectives for unsettled weather—useful for real-world trip planning.

Topos, mapping, and logistics

Production values are a standout: routes are traced on high‑quality crag photos with pitch lengths and per‑pitch grades; symbology for threads and fixed gear is consistent; abseil lines and escape options are marked where relevant. Approaches/descents are specific without being fussy, often naming parking, huts (Heiligkreuz‑Hospiz, Rif. Dibona, Croda da Lago, etc.), and typical timings. Many entries include honest gear notes (stoppers/cams sizes, where to expect pitons only) and character assessments that match the terrain—key for parties stepping from sport into alpine trad.

Regional maps and end‑matter route lists make cross‑referencing straightforward; classic WWI context around Lagazuoi/Tofana and brief landscape notes add welcome texture.

Who it’s for and how it compares

Best for teams confident leading UIAA IV–VI+ on traditionally protected limestone, comfortable with Dolomite route‑finding and long descents. As a selection guide it complements, rather than replaces, exhaustive area volumes (e.g., single‑region tomes). The author’s deep local knowledge, broad spread across subranges, and precise photo-topos are this book’s edge.

Verdict

An authoritative, beautifully executed selection guide that prioritizes the Dolomites’ most rewarding long routes and presents them with the clarity alpine teams need. For first‑time Dolomites visitors and repeat climbers alike, it’s an excellent planning foundation and a pack‑friendly companion for classics season after season.

Details

Weight

750g

Pages

528

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag