Alpinkletterführer Rätikon Süd

Scope and focus

This dedicated guide to the Swiss south side of the Rätikon concentrates on the big limestone faces between the Kirchlispitzen and the Schijenfluh above the Prättigau. It complements Panico’s coverage of the Austrian north side by zeroing in on where most of the hard classics actually lie. Expect serious multi‑pitch climbing on compact slabs and walls, with marquee lines such as WoGü, Die unendliche Geschichte, Dohle Jonathan and the much‑photographed Silbergeier setting the tone. The bulk of routes fall in the UIAA 6–8 range, with numerous testpieces above.

Covered areas include:

• Kirchlispitzen (3rd–7th peaks), Schweizertor/Schweizereck
• Drusenfluh and Drusentürme
• Sulzfluh (eastern south face), Gamstobelwand, Chlein Venedig
• Schijenfluh and the wider Partnun sector

Structure and usability

The book is arranged by logical climbing bases—most notably Grüscher Älpli and Partnun—with concise access notes from Schiers/Schuders or St. Antönien, parking guidance, and the nearest huts and bergrestaurants. Each sector opens with a clear overview map and panorama labeling cliffs, trails, and huts, followed by route lists and detailed photo‑topos. The topos are a highlight: pitch lengths, difficulty, and line trajectories are easy to follow; belays and protection are indicated, and short gear notes (e.g., “Rocks and small Friends helpful”) plus descent/retreat comments are included where it matters.

Climbing quality and selection

Grüscher Älpli gathers the area’s showpieces—steep, technical limestone where precise footwork is king and retreat can be complex high on the wall. Partnun broadens the appeal with well‑protected mid‑grade outings on Gruobenflüeli and friendly single‑pitch venues at Grüenwändli or Graustein, without sacrificing rock quality. The mix suits proficient alpine rock climbers: confident leaders will find modern, well‑equipped lines as well as traditional classics with a little supplemental gear.

Verdict

Mario Luginbühl’s guide captures both the grandeur and the nuance of Rätikon’s south side, balancing inspirational coverage of the hardest routes with practical detail for long days out. While high in difficulty overall, the inclusion of moderate, well‑bolted sectors in Partnun makes the book useful to a wider circle of experienced climbers. If your ambitions point to the great limestone walls above the Prättigau—whether to sample mid‑grade slabs or to project a benchmark testpiece—this is the right companion to plan, protect, and savor those routes.

Details

Weight

325g

Pages

240

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag