Alpinkletterführer Sella total

Overview

Sella total is an ambitious, highly polished climbing atlas to the Sella Group of the Dolomites, authored by Ladin mountain guide and prolific first‑ascensionist Ivo Rabanser. It aims to make this intricate limestone massif truly graspable, distilling decades of local knowledge into a practical, modern guide. The print volume documents 330+ multi‑pitch routes with meticulous topos, while an included 700‑page e‑book adds 450+ more lines to create a near‑complete Sella compendium. The core difficulty band centers on UIAA 4–7 (roughly YDS 5.5–5.10+), with outliers on both ends.

Coverage and structure

The book is organized by sector, each introduced with large annotated wall panoramas, clear route tables, and approach/escape information. Expect pitch‑by‑pitch line drawings with lengths and grades, gear notes, and descent options (often including abseil logistics). Rabanser weaves in historical first‑ascent details and smart micro‑beta such as polished cruxes, weather‑safe alternatives, and where extra protection is useful.

Major sectors covered include:

• Sellatürme (First–Fifth Towers)
• Ciavazes (Piz Ciavazes, Piz Lasties, Torre del Siella, Pic de Rozes)
• Pordoi (Sass Pordoi, Pordoi Towers; cragging at Pian Schiavaneis in the e‑book)
• Boè and Vallon (Neuner, Zehner, Boèseekofel, Pizkofel, Mesditürme, etc.)
• Pisciadù (incl. Mur del Pisciadù and Bruneckerturm)
• Murfrëit and Mëisules (Mesules, Piz Selva and neighbors)

Integration of DAV mapping (notably 52/1) on key spreads tightens route-finding in this maze of ridges and gullies.

On‑rock quality and usability

For alpine rock, the criteria that matter are well met:

• Topo clarity: exemplary photo topos plus legible pitch schematics.
• Route variety: classics and “must‑dos” sit alongside neglected gems across styles—slabs, corners, chimneys, and sunny pillars.
• Objective detail: realistic time estimates, abseil stations, and gear recommendations (cams, slings for threads) inspire confidence.
• Navigation: approaches and complex descents are shown on annotated photos; historical context aids route selection.

A minor caveat: the bonus e‑book aggregates additional routes whose topo style is not fully homogenized—useful breadth, if slightly variable in presentation.

Who it’s for

Best for visiting alpinists comfortable in UIAA 4–7 seeking long, traditionally protected outings, as well as locals hunting quieter lines. Sport crag options appear, but the heart is multi‑pitch adventure.

Verdict

Authoritative, beautifully executed, and genuinely field‑ready, Sella total is the single most useful planning base for a Sella trip. If you’re packing one Dolomites volume for long rock days between Passo Sella and Passo Pordoi, make it this one.

Details

Weight

1300g

Pages

516

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag