Alpinkletterführer Wetterstein Nord

Overview

Alpinkletterführer Wetterstein Nord is a comprehensive, climber-focused guide to the German side of the Wetterstein range—home to Germany’s highest summit, the Zugspitze—and the classic limestone arenas surrounding Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Compiled by local authors, this 5th edition reads as both a route compendium and a love letter to the area’s big walls, with a particularly deep dive into the secluded Oberreintal.

Coverage and structure

The book is organized by subregions, each with clear orientation maps, approach logistics, and hut/bivy practicalities:

• Meilerhütte and surroundings
• Oberreintal (the heart of the book, with towers and cirques like Oberreintalturm, Berggeisttürme, Schüsselkar)
• Reintal
• Alpspitze and surroundings (including the busy North Face sector above the Nordwandsteig)
• Höllental and Waxensteinkamm (Zugspitze, Schwarze Wand, Östlicher Riffelkopf)

Within each sector, you get a route register, photo-topos, annotated lines, and succinct descriptions of approach, character, protection, gear needs, and descent.

On the rock

For alpine rock climbers, the curation shines. Grades span from mid-third class ridges to cutting-edge 10/10+ testpieces, with the bulk in solid 6–7 territory. The guide is frank about character: many lines are well-bolted but remain decisively alpine, often benefiting from a light rack (cams and nuts) even on “sporty” faces. Seasonal and aspect notes are practical—e.g., Oberreintal’s abundant shade for high summer, quicker drying at the Unterer Berggeistturm, or stonefall awareness on Alpspitze above the Nordwandsteig. Approaches, abseil plans, and exit options are detailed enough to minimize surprises on long days.

Usability and design

Production values are high: crisp photo-topos, readable symbology, and at-a-glance data (height, length, obligatory grade, gear counts). Front-matter chapters on grades, protection norms, gear conversion, huts, and a concise history of climbing in the Oberreintal add welcome context. The route register at the back is excellent for trip planning and quick cross-reference.

Who it’s for

• Visiting alpinists seeking multipitch limestone with reliable information.
• Locals stepping from Plaisir routes into more committing terrain.
• Team leaders and instructors needing clear descent and hazard notes around Alpspitze and the huts.

Verdict

Thorough, field-tested, and distinctly local in voice, this guidebook sets a high standard for alpine rock coverage in the Northern Limestone Alps. If the Wetterstein is on your radar—from shaded Oberreintal walls to cable-car-assisted days on the Alpspitze—this is the one to pack.

Details

Weight

575g

Pages

432

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag