Alpinkletterführer Wetterstein Süd

Overview

Alpinkletterführer Wetterstein Süd is a focused alpine climbing guide to the southern Wetterstein range and the adjoining Mieminger Kette—home turf for long limestone walls, legendary lines, and increasingly popular valley crags. Compiled by Karlheinz Grübler, Bernhard Hangl, and Albert Neuner, it balances historical classics with modern sport-style routes and gives a clear sense of the area’s contrasts: from the storied Schüsselkar to the craggy flanks below the Zugspitze.

Coverage and structure

The guide is organized into four parts:

• Schüsselkar and surroundings
• Zugspitze and Western Wetterstein ridge
• Mieminger Kette
• Crags around Ehrwald and Telfs

Each area opens with “Kurzcharakter” tables summarizing wall heights, aspect, and grade span—an excellent planning aid for season and objective hazards. Destinations range widely, including Scharnitzspitze, Schüsselkarspitze, Dreizinkentürme; Kaiserkopf, Wetterwandmassiv, Plattspitzen; Ehrwalder Sonnenspitze, Grünstein, Tajaköpfe, Hohe Munde; and crags such as Griesen, Hanger, Ehrwalder Platte, Arzbergklamm, and Hex.

Field usefulness for climbers

• Route variety: everything from well-bolted plaisir slabs to serious “Longlines” up to 1000 m (e.g., Wetterwandmassiv). Grades span from easy 3s in the crags to hard 10/11 on steep faces—ample progression for teams of mixed ability.
• Approaches and descents: access descriptions are practical, with time estimates and options (including MTB-friendly tracks). Abseil possibilities and long walk-offs are explained where relevant—vital at Schüsselkarspitze and on Mieminger slabs.
• Safety and protection: clear notes on bolting density, mixed protection, and objective hazards (snowfields, stonefall), plus a topo legend and gear conversion chart.
• Topos and mapping: color photo-topos with numbered pitches, anchor positions, and cross-references to “Topokarte” pages are crisp and easy to follow; action photos help visualize rock texture and angle.

Practicalities

The hut section is a standout, listing logical bases like Wettersteinhütte, Wangalm, and Rotmoosalm with opening periods and contacts—useful for linking multi-day objectives around Leutasch, the Coburger Hütte basin, and the Ehrwald side.

Verdict

A robust, thoughtfully structured guide for ambitious limestone fans who want both history-laden alpine outings and convenient valley cragging. Strong topos, concise planning tables, and honest hazard notes make it a dependable partner for the Wetterstein Süd and Mieminger Kette. Highly recommended for intermediate to expert parties planning a versatile week around Schüsselkar, Zugspitze, or the Ehrwald–Telfs crags.

Details

Weight

500g

Pages

432

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag