Best of Südostalpen - Karnische und Julische Alpen

Overview

This is a thoughtfully curated climbing guide to the Carnic and Julian Alps at the crossroads of Austria, Italy, and Slovenia. It concentrates on high-quality limestone in a compact swath of the Southeastern Alps, where Mediterranean influences and comparatively low crowding meet big-mountain ambiance. Coverage spans cragging, bouldering, and a substantial selection of multi‑pitch lines, many in the UIAA 6–9 range with outliers from 4 to 11−.

Destinations included:

• Kartitsch and the Kinigat
• Bouldering around Obergail
• Wolayersee
• Plöckenpass West and Plöckenpass
• Lago di Avostanis
• Nassfeld (Rosskofel/Trogkofel area)
• Sella Nevea
• Rifugio Corsi
• Mangart
• Vršič Pass

Structure and usability

The guide is cleanly organized with color‑coded sections, concise area overviews, and a comprehensive route register. Full‑color photo topos (by Anna Rösch) are crisp, with pitch grades, belays, and logical lines that remain readable on complex walls. Area maps combine clear approach and descent info; long faces such as Creta della Cjanevate are treated with diagrammatic overviews, abseil lines, and options to link ridges and gullies. Gear notes, first‑ascent credits, and seriousness flags (e.g., E‑ratings, A0/Aid indications) help set expectations.

On the rock

• Variety: from hut‑adjacent sectors at Wolayersee (five walls within 5–25 minutes) to big routes up to 1,100 m, plus family‑friendly crags and dedicated bouldering.
• Style: compact alpine limestone with slabs, corners, and walls; a mix of fully bolted sport multi‑pitch and more traditional lines requiring cams, nuts, and route‑finding.
• Grading focus: the sweet spot is UIAA 6–8; strong teams will find modern testpieces, while mid‑grade climbers get ample choice on excellent rock.
• Logistics: thoughtful hut references (Wolayerseehütte/Lambertenghi, Rif. Marinelli, Rifugio Corsi) encourage multi‑day mini‑expeditions.

Authority and voice

Authors Hannes Lexer and Stefan Lieb‑Lind are IFMGA guides with deep local roots and a long record of first ascents. That intimacy shows in the route selection—“only the best” here means lines they know by feel, not just by hearsay—and in the frank notes on protection, rock quality, and descents.

Verdict

A standout regional guide that balances inspiration with precision. Climbers planning a cross‑border road trip—or a hut‑based week in the Wolayersee/Plöckenpass/Mangart triangle—will appreciate the clear topos, realistic gear and descent advice, and the breadth from boulders to big walls. Highly recommended for teams comfortable on UIAA 6–8 who want alpine flavor without the Dolomites’ crowds.

Details

Weight

550g

Pages

500

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag