Kletterführer Schwarzwald Nord

Overview

This is a focused rock-climbing guide to the northern Black Forest, built around the region’s contrasting rock types and styles. Expect the proud, traditionally protected porphyry towers of the Battert above Baden‑Baden, compact granite in the Bühlertal and Schramberg area, and pockets of friendly sandstone in the Nagold valley—an appealing mix for climbers who enjoy both classic adventure routes and modern sport lines.

Coverage and structure

The book is organized by area with clear A–H sectioning:

• Battert, Bühlertal, Murgtal, Bad Herrenalb
• Nagoldtal, Oberer Neckar, Schramberger Gebiete, Ortenau

Within each, you get sector-by-sector topos, approach notes, aspect/sun information, wall heights, route counts, and grade distributions. A substantial front matter covers how to use the guide, emergency info, access and conservation, history, and a concise geology primer—useful context for understanding why protection and movement styles vary. A comprehensive “Felsregister” at the back cross‑references sectors, exposure, route numbers, and pages for quick planning.

On-the-rocks guidance

The Battert receives deep treatment and sets the tone: sparse fixed gear, frequent use of cams and nuts, real summits, and abseil descents. Seriousness is flagged with an exclamation mark where “don’t fall” applies, while an explicit E‑grade is avoided—an honest approach that encourages judgment rather than box‑ticking. In contrast, Schramberg’s Ruine Falkenstein and Lauterbacher Felsen are cleanly bolted, plaisir‑oriented granite, and Nagoldtal crags such as Hängende Gärten and Amphitheater offer shorter, sunny outings. Seasonal restrictions and access nuances are consistently indicated.

Mapping and usability

Photorealistic topos with color‑coded lines, protection symbols, and descent arrows are easy to read. Overview maps and “ground plan” sketches help in complex areas like the Battert’s labyrinth of ribs and towers. Public transport pointers and nearby amenities are included where relevant. An app code for a three‑year iOS/Android companion (Vertical‑Life) adds digital convenience.

Who it’s for

• Trad‑curious leaders stepping into the Battert’s classic grades.
• Sport climbers seeking well‑equipped granite at Schramberg or Murgtal’s roadside crags.
• Weekend planners who value sun/aspect data and quick cross‑references.

Verdict

A robust, field‑ready guide that balances history, ethics, and modern usability. Its Battert coverage is exemplary, the topos are confident and consistent, and the mix of trad seriousness and plaisir venues makes trip planning easy in all seasons. Strongly recommended for anyone aiming to explore the Northern Black Forest beyond the usual limestone circuits.

Details

Weight

550g

Pages

336

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag