Kletterführer Setesdal

Scope and structure

This fifth edition of Hans Weninger’s Setesdal guide consolidates Southern Norway’s granite valley into a clear, sector‑by‑sector manual. After short chapters on history, usage, getting there, and “survival tips,” the book moves through the crags A–N, each arranged consistently from left to right: approach, descent, notes on style and history, then detailed topos and route lists. Numbering is left‑to‑right within walls, and sectors are named for nearby settlements to aid navigation. A concluding rocklist plus legend/grades wrap it up.

Coverage and climbing focus

The scope is impressive: 650+ routes spread over almost 1700 pitches, more than 150 boulder problems, and three new via ferratas since the previous edition. Setesdal’s character—sweeping granite slabs and corners—comes through in long, well‑bolted “plaisir” lines and substantial multi‑pitch outings on walls like Løefjell and Bø’s Monsterwand (e.g., Breitmacher, Jotun, Trolldans). Adventure seekers get ample clean‑gear options, while families are well served by kids’ sectors (Paradise at Løefjell) and easy, scenic multi‑pitch routes (Neverland). Bouldering is thoughtfully curated, with newer clusters at Hommeblokk and Musicblokk and a benchmark hard problem, Bifrost (Fb 8a).

Practical equipment advice is refreshingly specific: bring 12–13 quickdraws for plaisir routes, a full set of nuts/cams for trad, and crucially, twin/double 60 m ropes for both ascent and descent.

Mapping, topos, and usability

Photo‑topos are crisp and legible, with pitch lengths, belays, and the occasional bolt count marked. Access and parking notes reflect changes along the RV9 corridor, and the book points readers to current local information. A notable value add is the included code for the Vertical‑Life app, granting three years of mobile topo access—handy in a valley where sectors are spread out.

Destinations covered

• Homme, Kveste, Voretoni, Haugeskar, Straumsfjell, Valle, Bø, Haugelandsfjell, Løefjell, Rastefjell
• Bouldering areas: Reimarmoblokk, Hommeblokk, Musicblokk, Rasteblokk
• Hinterland/Highlands (Upper Setesdal) and the via ferratas

Verdict

A mature, field‑tested guide that balances big‑wall ambition with family‑friendly days out, and mixes history with practical detail. For sport leaders seeking immaculate granite friction, trad aficionados chasing clean corners, or boulderers filling in weather windows, this is the Setesdal reference to pack—made even better by robust photo‑topos and the bundled app. Strongly recommended.

Details

Weight

600g

Pages

352

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag