Sportkletterführer Vorarlberg

Scope and coverage

Sportkletterführer Vorarlberg is a comprehensive sport-climbing guide to Austria’s westernmost state, spanning five major areas—Bregenzerwald, Rheintal, Walgau, Montafon, and Arlberg—with a useful bouldering appendix. Within these chapters the book ranges from lakeside cragging at Bregenz’s Känzele to the sweeping limestone of the Hängender Stein, the contrasting faces of the Bürser Schlucht and Bürser Platte, and higher venues around Spullersee and the Flexenpass. Notable hotspots include Schellenberg, Spiegelstein, Ebnit/Klara (with multi‑pitch up to five lengths), Lorünser Wändle, and the Au/Mittagfluh.

Structure and usability

After concise sections on using the guide, conservation, access, transport, rest‑day options, and accommodation, each region opens with orientation maps, sun/aspect notes, approach/parking instructions, and an at‑a‑glance grade breakdown. Clear line drawings and photo topos show bolt lines, variations, abseils, and sector links; longer crags include descent advice. A rear rock index and an international grade comparison table streamline trip planning, while a fold‑out overview map on the back flap ties it together. A three‑year Vertical‑Life code adds a reliable digital companion in the field.

Climbing detail and editorial choices

For climbers, the guide shines in three areas:

• Variety and depth: from beginner slabs to 10th‑grade testpieces, plus selected multi‑pitch at Klara and Spullersee and curated bouldering (e.g., Schellenberg, Slotter, Silvapark).
• Clear, technical information: consistent symbology, sector schematics, and pragmatic approach notes reduce on‑site faff; rock type differences are flagged—conglomerate and sandstone at Känzele versus compact limestone at Walgau’s big walls.
• Meticulous route records: many routes carry names, first‑ascensionists, dates, and updated grades—useful for projecting and local history.

Safety and ethics are treated with welcome candor (e.g., fragile blocks and hidden cavities at Spiegelstein; selective inclusion/omission of sectors where protection is sub‑standard). One trade‑off: Känzele—Vorarlberg’s largest crag—is covered as a selection because a dedicated guide exists; most visitors will still find ample mileage.

Verdict

An authoritative, field‑ready companion to sport climbing in Vorarlberg, balancing breadth with on‑the‑ground detail and an evident respect for local ethics and nature. If you’re planning anything from a first visit to a season of projecting across grades and styles—cragging days, shaded summer sessions, or high‑alpine escapes—this guide is the one to pack.

Details

Weight

665g

Pages

496

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag