Alpinkletterführer Rofan

Scope and coverage

This dedicated climbing guide to the Rofan range above Lake Achensee carves the massif into west, east, and north sections, reflecting how distinct the faces climb. Coverage is impressively complete for such a compact group: from Klobenjoch (both sun‐drenched south face and more serious north walls), Rotspitze, Gschöllkopf, Höllenlochwand, Issplatten, and Hochiss in the west, through Seekarlspitze, Rosskopf, Rofanspitze, Schokoladetafel, Sagzahn, Vorderes Sonnwendjoch/Köglwand, Kammerkirch’, Schermsteinwand, and Haidachstellwand in the east, to the outliers Guffert and the Schneidjoch/Abendstein crag in the north. Expect everything from short crag pitches to 400‑meter walls, with grades spanning roughly UIAA 3 to 10‑.

Structure and mapping

The book follows Panico’s clear, field‑tested layout. Each sector opens with orientation, wall height, grade spread, and approach. Routes are listed with difficulties, character notes, and first‑ascent credits; many include pitch‑by‑pitch remarks plus descent guidance (e.g., abseil options such as 2×55 m or a 70 m single). A combination of overview maps, sector sketches, and photo topos ties the terrain together—the linework is clean, bolted belays and key features are easy to identify, and “Topokarte” numbering makes cross‑referencing simple.

On‑the‑rock detail

What sets this guide apart is how well it captures the Rofan’s dual personality. South faces like Klobenjoch‑Süd deliver modern alpine sport climbing on solid limestone; the authors flag which lines are fully bolted or recently re‑equipped. North walls (Klobenjoch‑Nord, Hochiss‑Nord) are presented as more committing, often crack‑oriented and sometimes damp—an honest appraisal that helps with route choice and rack planning. Brief historical notes—names such as Rebitsch, Buhl, and Mariacher—add context without overwhelming the practical information.

Logistics and access

Approach descriptions leverage the Rofan cable car and logical bases (Erfurter Hütte, Berggasthaus Rofan, Dalfaz‑Alm), with walking times that feel realistic for day hits from the valley. Useful etiquette and access reminders (e.g., water catchment near the Dalfaz‑Alm, quiet behavior) show the authors’ local touch.

Verdict

For climbers aiming to sample both well‑bolted mountain pitches and classic adventure lines in one compact range, this guide is hard to beat. Clear topos, candid route character, and reliable logistics make it a strong companion for first‑time visitors and repeat Rofan enthusiasts alike. Highly recommended for solid UIAA‑grade leaders who appreciate both plaisir limestone and old‑school alpine flavor.

Details

Weight

375g

Pages

300

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag