Kletterführer Allgäu

Scope and structure

This eighth edition of Panico’s Allgäu climbing guide pulls the Allgäu Alps and adjacent Tannheimer peaks into one coherent alpine volume. It has grown by roughly 80 pages, reflecting both new route development and clearer organization. Coverage spans the first limestone chain above the foothills, with sections that climbers actually plan by: Tannheimer Berge (Westkamm, South and North faces), Vilsalpseeberge, Ostrachtal, Allgäuer Hochalpen, Mindelheimer Hütte, Kleinwalsertal, and the Allgäuer Voralpen. Note that the Ammergau has spun out into its own guide; Lechtal routes are covered elsewhere.

On the rock

Route choice is broad and well-calibrated for alpine limestone: from classic first multipitches on Rote Flüh, Hochwiesler and Gimpel to modern testpieces such as Polarstern and Welcome to Tijuana. Grades run from easy (III/IV) to double‑digit sport cruxes, with an “E” seriousness tag and short gear notes per route—useful when the text reminds you that many lines are “sanitized but not overbolted.” Photo-topos and clean line drawings are sharp, with pitch lengths, logical stances, and descent options (including explicit abseil pistes on Hochwiesler). The book also reaches beyond the honey pots: the Zwerchwand and Schäfer plaisir sectors, the mixed playgrounds (Aggenstein, Rubihorn, Widderstein), and long day outings like Fuchskarspitze or the elegant Schneck—often dubbed the “Cerro Torre of the Allgäu” for its shape.

Practicalities and safety

Approach maps (BEV base) and hut logistics are a strength. Weekend tactics are spelled out: Gimpelhaus under the Tannheimer south walls; Prinz‑Luitpold‑Haus for Ostrachtal crags, Tam‑Tam‑Wand and big routes like Hochvogel. The guide flags aging hardware in places (e.g., D’r Grind) and repeatedly stresses competent abseil technique on exposed descents. Access and shuttle notes for Hinterstein–Giebelhaus, seasonal openings, and local safety group advisories are integrated at chapter heads.

Verdict

A comprehensive, field‑smart companion to the region’s “first real mountains” for southern Germany and northern Tyrol. It balances heritage climbs and current bolting standards, couples inspiring imagery with practical topos, and helps you string together big, sun‑chasing days or hut‑based weekends. Ideal for teams stepping from sport to alpine multipitch—and strong parties hunting 7–9s on impeccable Allgäu limestone. Recommended.

Details

Weight

600g

Pages

504

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag