Kletterführer Ammergauer Alpen

Scope and coverage

This alpine climbing guide zeroes in on the Ammergauer Alpen around Füssen, balancing big limestone faces with approachable valley crags. Coverage is impressively complete: the Halblech sector (Geiselstein, Kenzenkopf, Hochplatte, Krähe), the Füssen hills (Tegelberg, Hoher/Niederer Straußberg, Zunderköpfe, Pilgerschrofen), the Säuling massif (including the Kleiner Säuling and Brunstgratwand), plus a dedicated chapter for sport crags around town (Ziegelwies, Schwanseeplatten, Kraftwerkwand and more). It even adds a winter-climbing section at the Pilgerschrofen.

Structure and usability

The book opens with concise context—regional history, how to use the guide, protection/gear, and grading—before dividing routes into four clear parts: A Halblech, B Füssen, C Säuling, and D Sportklettern. Each area comes with access notes (including realistic public transport and e‑bike shortcuts), hut bases, and approach times. A back-flap overview map ties everything together, while a cumulative route list at the end is excellent for planning multi-day linkups.

On-the-rock information

For multi-pitch limestone, the topos shine: precise wall photos with line overlays, pitch lengths, key anchors, and abseil options. Orientation and character are conveyed well—e.g., the Geiselstein’s contrasting faces, the high, sun-baked Kenzenkopf south side, and the shady, technical north-east wall of the Krähe with its newer, harder testpieces. Bolting style is honestly described: expect modern, well-equipped sport lines in places like the Peißenberger Alpinklettergarten and Brunstgratwand, but also traditional spacing and mixed protection on historical routes. Descent notes are detailed where it matters; for example, the Geiselstein’s normal route downclimb is clearly broken down to avoid surprises. Valley crags get succinct, practical treatments—Ziegelwies and the Schwansee slabs for mileage, Kraftwerkwand for power days.

Evaluation and recommendation

This is a thoughtfully assembled, field-driven guide that makes a complex limestone region legible without sanding off its alpine character. The combination of sharp cartography, readable topos, and candid text about protection, grades, and objective effort sets it apart. It best serves teams comfortable on multi-pitch 6–8 terrain (with harder options well represented) who value both adventure routes and a few quick sport laps on rest days. A strong, confidence-inspiring choice for a first or return trip to the Ammergau—highly recommended.

Details

Weight

800g

Pages

360

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag