Kletterführer Schwarzwald Süd

Overview

This is Panico’s comprehensive climbing guide to the Southern Black Forest, shaped around the region’s defining contrast: sunny, low-angled gneiss and granite walls rising above the Rhine Valley while snow can still linger on nearby summits. Expect plentiful moderate routes, sweeping views toward the Vosges, and a “plaisir” feel that rewards footwork and balance over brute strength.

Coverage and structure

The guide is organized by six subregions:

Freiburg crags: Kostgfäll, Kandelfelsen, Scheibenfels (Zastler), Gfällfelsen, Harzlochfelsen, Altvogelbachfelsen
Hochschwarzwald: Felsele, Adlerschanze, Todtnau crag
Albtal: Erikafels, Wasserschlossfluh, Brückenfels
Schlüchttal: Hagenbuchfels, Falkenstein, Vesperklotz, Spächtturm, Chrüzfelsenfluh, Tannholzwand, Allmuter Grat, Schwedenfels
Triberg area: Windeckfelsen, Hornberger Platte, Teufelsfelsen, Schwenninger Hütte
Schramberg area: Lauterbacher Felsen, Ruine Falkenstein, Mühlefels

Each sector begins with access info, orientation, sun/shade, wall height, base conditions, route counts by grade band, and GPS coordinates. Clear overview maps and detailed topos make navigation straightforward.

On-the-rock details

Rock and style: grippy gneiss and coarse granite, from rasp-rough slabs to featured walls and cracks; generally vertical to slightly steep.
Grades: a deep bench of quality in the 4–6 range, fewer options above 7—ideal for mileage and skill-building.
Protection: mixed. Many routes are well-bolted with modern hardware, yet cams and nuts are useful, especially at Kandelfelsen and in classic lines; shared anchors are common.
Seasonality: numerous west/south-facing walls (e.g., Kandel) stay friendly in cool seasons; higher crags can be damp after weather.
Training value: selected multi-pitch lines at Gfäll (Rhodewand, “Studentenwegmassiv”) are well suited for learning stance management and alternating leads.

What stands out

Beyond the topos, the front matter is unusually strong: concise travel logistics, clear “how to use” guidance, regional history, geology, and a frank ethics chapter (“What not to do”). The guide carries Germany’s “naturverträglich Klettern” quality seal and includes a three-year Vertical-Life app code, extending the topos onto your phone. Public transport access is highlighted—useful in the Freiburg basin.

Verdict

A polished, field-tested guide that excels for moderate sport and mixed climbers seeking variety, good rock, and big-forest ambience. If your priorities are clear maps, reliable topos, and thoughtful conservation guidance—plus digital backup—this South Black Forest volume belongs in your pack.

Details

Extract

Activity: Climbing
Weight: 580g
Pages: 360
ISBN: 978-3-95611-177-8
Publisher: Panico Alpinverlag

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