Kletterführer Loferer und Leoganger Steinberge

Summary of the region

North of the long limestone ramparts of the Steinplatte and west of the Wilder Kaiser, the steep, rocky Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge form a compact alpine bastion split by two classic bases: Leogang and Lofer. The terrain is relentlessly steep, with few connecting ridges—perfect breeding ground for long multi-pitch lines that have gained cult status in the past two decades and a hut scene led by the Schmidt‑Zabierow‑Hütte.

Scope and structure

This is a comprehensive climbing guide to both the Loferer and Leoganger Steinberge, divided into four logical sections by trailhead:

• A St. Ulrich am Pillersee (south and west faces)
• B Waidring
• C Lofer/St. Martin with the Schmidt‑Zabierow‑Hütte
• D Leogang, including approaches to the Passauer Hütte and Mitterbrand

A full front matter covers use of the guide, protection and equipment, grading, a seriousness “E‑bewertung,” topo legend, access, geology, brief climbing history, plus hut chapters. Closing lists by crag and by grade, route statistics, and overview panoramas make cross‑referencing easy.

On-route information and mapping

Photo-topos are crisp and information‑rich: pitch‑by‑pitch grades, bolt and piton hints (BH/NH), belays, abseil lines, and recommended rope lengths. Approach maps are clear, with symbols for parking, transport, and even e‑bike help on long forestry tracks. The E‑scale and protection icons help assess commitment on these big faces—valuable where descents are long and escape options few. Selected sectors (e.g., Kasawand) feature modern, well-bolted water‑groove slabs, while many long routes retain an alpine character requiring nuts and slings.

Coverage and destinations

Expect thorough coverage from modest ridge climbs on Ulrichshorn/Heimkehrerkreuz to serious undertakings on the Reifhorn trio, Skihörndl, Traunspitzl & Dreispitz, the Ochsenhorn group, and across to the Leoganger side with Birnhorn, Hochzint, Brandhorn, Kasawand/Kasaplatten, and more. Huts (Schmidt‑Zabierow‑Hütte, Passauer Hütte) are treated as practical staging hubs.

Verdict

For climbers targeting long limestone and dolomite outings—grades roughly 4 to 9‑, 150–900 m, with 1.5–3‑hour approaches—this guide excels. Its clear topos, honest protection/seriousness assessment, strong hut logistics, and useful appendices set it apart. Come prepared for full‑day missions in big terrain; if that’s your goal, this is the definitive companion to the Steinberge. Recommended.

Details

Weight

800g

Pages

600

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag