Im extremen Fels

Scope and structure

This handsome reimagining of Walter Pause’s cult classic gathers 100 “extreme” rock routes across the Alps, progressing west to east from the Écrins and Mont Blanc massif to the Dolomites, Gesäuse and Dachstein. Each route receives a double‑page treatment with a clear hand‑drawn topo, difficulty both as free grade and with A0 options, a “Gesamtanspruch” seriousness rating, and concise sections on approach, time required, protection, rock quality, recommended gear, descent, and further sources. Historic black‑and‑white wall shots by Jürgen Winkler are interleaved with current action images, giving the book both documentary weight and modern relevance. QR codes link to route videos—many filmed by Christoph Klein—which is unusually practical for planning and for visualizing cruxes and abseil lines.

Content and usability

For climbers, the criteria that matter are handled well:

• Topo clarity: legible lines, pitches labeled with grades, and key terrain (runnels, ramps, couloirs) annotated.
• Protection guidance: candid notes on fixed gear, where cams/keels are indispensable, and where quality is variable.
• Objective hazards and tactics: stonefall windows, storm exposure, and realistic time budgets are stated without drama.
• Historical context: short essays weave in first‑ascent stories and stylistic evolution, honoring the original Pause spirit while updating ethics with redpoint standards.

The prose is vivid but disciplined, helping you judge commitment before you rack up. It reads as a planning companion rather than a cheerleader.

Destinations and standout routes

Coverage is broad and well‑chosen. Highlights include the Grand Capucin (Bonatti and the Schweizerführe/O sole mio), Walker and Croz on the Grandes Jorasses, Salbitschijen Westgrat, Piz Badile Cassin, Brenta pillars (Crozzon, Ambiez), Civetta Solleder, Marmolada Vinatzer–Messner, Tre Cime north faces, and Eastern Alpine testpieces like the Oberreintaldom “Gonda,” Laserzwand Direkte Nordwand, and the Dachl “Diagonale.”

Notes on authorship

The edition carries a poignant tribute to co‑author Christoph Klein, whose films and modernized assessments infuse the book; Winkler’s archive imagery roots it in the 1960s golden age. The editorial frames how Alpine rock has changed over five decades—bolting, free standards, and risk management—without moralizing.

Verdict

A meticulously curated, beautifully produced selection for experienced alpinists comfortable around UIAA VI–VII who value history, honest beta, and clean topos. Not a pocket topo, but an inspiring, reliable reference for choosing—and respecting—the Alps’ great rock lines. Strongly recommended.

Details

Weight

1500g

Publisher

Panico Alpinverlag